| CAGING The cage is one of the most important aspects of owning a bearded dragon. It is best to start out with a cage suitable for the dragon’s size. If the enclosure is to large it can harbor uneaten insects which can stress out your dragon especially when they are first adjusting. Too small of an enclosure will not allow a temperature gradient. The gradient is necessary for your dragon to practice thermoregulation (controlling it's body temperature by moving to a hotter/cooler spot in the enclosure). As far as aesthetics go it is up to you (hopefully with your dragon(s) in mind). Many use glass enclosures or melamine caging. If housing several dragons it can be cost and space efficient to use stackable caging. We use and recommend critter condoz. www.crittercondoz.com Bearded Dragons also need a basking spot allowing them to reach their desired temperature. We suggest the basking spot temperature remain between 95-105° Fahrenheit. In addition, having an elevated sturdy object in the enclosure will allow them to climb closer to the heat. Some accomplish this by using safely treated wood, rock(s), etc. . . A small shallow water dish can be placed in the enclosure but it is unlikely it will be used often. However dragons still require water to survive. Your dragon will receive water from its veggies as well. For additional hydration we suggest soaking your dragon once a week in a very small amount of water. Use just enough for your dragon(s) to walk or wade in. For substrate there are a few different options. Crushed walnut shells, smooth tile, smooth slate, vinyl or paper towels all have worked for others in the past. It is important to know that some substrates such as reptile manufactured sand can impact your dragon which can in some cases be fatal. We recommend textured vinyl/tile/slate because of easy clean up or chemical free children's play sand(show caution for neonate dragons). A sifter will be necessary if using sand or walnut shells. To keep proper hygiene spot clean the enclosure daily. LIGHTING Another very important aspect of owning a bearded dragon is the lighting. Providing full spectrum lighting (UVB/UVA) is very crucial. This works hand in hand with the calcium/vitamins you will dust your insects and/or veggies with. The UVB rays enable the dragon to synthesize the calcium and other nutrients they need to survive. You can use separate lights to provide the UVB and heat. A Coil or a linear fluorescent bulb can be used for UVB. We also recommend using self-ballasted mercury vapor bulbs that provide both if you are using the proper caging with it. Improper use can be devastating to your dragon. We suggest Mega Ray or Exo Terra's Solar Glo thus far. However if you are using stackable caging, fluorescent lighting(we recommend a 10.0) with an incandescent bulb is most suitable. Mercury Vapor bulbs tend to be much too hot for fully enclosed melamine cages in most cases. FEEDING When feeding, we recommend that the food items offered should be no larger than the space between the dragon’s eyes. Too large of an item can impact your beardie. Protein items such as crickets, worms(several species), roaches, and hornworms are an important part of your dragons staple diet. Greens(veggies) are very important as well, and remember adult dragons will require more greens than your babies/juveniles. Collard greens, dandelion greens, mustard greens, banana squash, bell peppers and sweet potato are all good options. Remember to dust with calcium and vitamins in a way that suits your dragons needs best. We also suggest gut loading your insects. You can purchase food for your insects that will load them with protein, calcium, vitamins and minerals several places online. Remember, what goes into your insects goes into your dragon. ARRIVAL Upon arrival dragons tend to go through a "shock" period. This may consist of different coloration, lack of appetite, etc. . . There is no set time for this to go away. Each dragon is completely different. Once they feel comfortable they will become more active and eat well (a healthy dragon always will). In most cases the dragon makes it through fine. However this is not fact nor guarantee. ALWAYS note your dragons habits and behavior. If there are any signs your dragon is not progressing call or see a vet. Younger dragons tend to be a bit flighty but should eventually become a docile lizard if given the necessary attention and care. There is no particular time frame for this. It can be achieved by creating a both comfortable and correct controlled environment. Always have a trusted veterinarian to take your dragon(s) to for check-ups and just in case of emergency situations. Once they reach juvenile/sub-adult age, they tend to tolerate being out with their owners outside of their cage a bit more easily. They have even been known to sit on their owner’s shoulder and watch TV. The more often the dragon is held the friendlier they become, however there is such a thing as too much. Remember to keep in mind that each bearded dragon is different and has their own unique personality. |
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| We have provided a generic care sheet for quick reference. We are happy to answer any and all questions in further detail. - Thanks |